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  • Frankie Pioli

Sleeping With The Enemies

Updated: Mar 17, 2018


Timidly sliding the door to one side, a distant echoing roar filled the van. I looked out from the surrounding cliffs. The frosty morning mist filled thi

s reclusive hideaway beach. The culprit of the roar was evident. This eight hundred meter stretch was under attack. Wedge after wedge lined the beach. Oval, from top to bottom, spitting smoky barrels appeared through the mist, just meters from the shoreline.









The boys sprung to life after the drive, bursting out of the van and immediately begun getting kitted up. Myself, taking my time quietly. As we then climbed down the cliff, the size quadrupled. It was at this moment I realised; there is a lot more to ‘body-boarding’ than I had first anticipated. Looking around, it dawned that I was alone. I was the only one holding a surfboard. More and more I began feeling out of my depth. I couldn’t let them see me get this far, to then turn around. To save me from the embarrassment and save my ego, I paddled out! It was easy enough due to the perfect sets, however catching one was a challenge. Pulling off because of fear, pretending it was uncatchable due to my board or whatever I could think of at the time… guilty! An hour passed, and having only caught only one wave, the cold started to creep in, a perfect excuse to go and make a coffee!





After a year of surfing amongst ‘boogas,’ involving; a few awkward moments, probably a thousand poundings, gruelling hold-downs… and some absolutely insane waves, my surfing has evolved! My confidence has boomed.






I am much more confident to catch waves that I would have previously thought were unmakable. Hollow, shallow and crazy fast now appeals to me. Late take offs and that buzz I now feel when I make that perfect barrel. Taking the risks… perceived risk… a risk that actually does not always involve such a terrible consequence. I am alive with no major injuries, and a whole load of insane waves in my memory bank! ‘If in doubt, paddle out’ is not such a bad phrase to live by.



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